So, the past week has been a busy one. I'm going to focus on one little episode though, for the sake of time. First, I want to explain a little bit about One World to give some context to the story. Our program is focused not just on experiential learning and volunteering in Ghana, but also on living in solidarity with the economic poor while we're here. We live on a budget that, for the most part, reflects the economic conditions of many of Ghana's lower class. We are also trained to think about whether or not something is a "want" or a need" and to strive to only spend money on needs and try to do without those wants for a while. This has been an amazing experience, and I know from talking to other volunteers and tourists that's it's really shaped my experience here, my perception of the country, and it has really changed my understanding of poverty in general. It's been tough though, and like I've talked about before, it becomes really tough when you realize how artificial it is. Still worthwhile, but it can be frustrating. And it's been really hard in Accra where I feel like I've had access to so many more options than I did in the village, and where sometimes I've been tempted...and given into the temptation...to buy treats which I know technically aren't part of living in solidarity. It's a struggle to figure out what is a want and what is a need, and to identify the ways I make excuses for myself and justify certain actions. It's been like a practice run for going home, and figuring out what level of lifestyle I can sustain while still striving to "live simply", focusing on needs, not wants, and not allowing wants to dictate my actions without consideration of the impacts of my choices. So, that's the context.
Now for the adventure. It may not sound exciting, but it was huge for me. On Thursday I had the day off work, so I decided to run some errands. I visited an NGO, and then decided to go the mall to get some pictures developed.
-ok - no one is probably reading these anymore, but I just realized that a big chunk of this blog got cut out. What was here was me explaining that I went to the mall, and that it was a huge shock to the system, especially when compared to the informal economy that is running its course right outside the doors. It felt like stepping through a protal back to North America and it was extremely overwhelming. I had to walk around for a bit with my sunglasses on because I got a little teary and panicky - it was just too much seeing all the expensive shops and knowing how many people in Ghana do not have access to the products I was seeing. Many people shopping there were clearly western tourists, though there were also quite a few rich Ghanaiains. It was an experience that really emphasized the extent of Ghana's economic disparity. Anyway, this cuts to a weird spot but heres the rest of what I wrote at the time:
as well as rich Ghanaians. Maybe I never would have known that the same notebook on sale for 10 cedis is available at any street shop for 3.50. Or that I can get a beautiful dress made for 10 cedis, instead of spending 30 on a t-shirt. In Canada, its far easier for me to ignore the disparity between rich and poor because even being a "poor student" I've never really altered my lifestyle. Become more sale-savvy maybe; ate a lot more mac and cheese. But I never really had to explore the question of how differently I live than the economic poor in my own country. One of my goals for going home is to try to become more aware of my country's economic gaps and to start identifying some of the things I have access to which other don't. I know it won't look the same as in Ghana, because the informal economy here is completely different. Maybe the mall is more accessible - the Cataraqui Town Centre chain stores are certainly cheaper than the downtown boutiques. This doesn't mean I'll give up everything that I identify as a privilege (necessarily). But like I talked about in my last blog, it will allow me to think about them differently.
Anyway, that was the mall. Not so Robyn Sparkles. That same day I was walking down the street, past Makola market and it hit me - I feel way more at home in this crowded, smelly, market, being shoved alongside buckets of snails and cow hoofs than I did in that pristine air conditioned building. That was another thing I noticed about the mall, though it took me a while - no one was hissing or calling or grabbing or shoving things in my face to buy. It was half nice to blend it but also kind of felt like I was among the living dead. If I am forced to return to a retail job, I'm going to really focus on friendly customer services. I've found such a community here with my food people, and my book guy and feel like I have a relationship with them - something which I didn't feel would come easily with the bored customer service drones at the mall (of which I have been one). It's strange to associate that disinterestedness with upper class, North American style shopping malls but there it is. Though I do remember that at Teaopia, we did have a lot of regulars and there was a certain amount of community around that store so it is possible. Anyway, at least at the market people seemed alive - passionate about selling me their wares. Maybe they were just more invested in it, due to their reliance on making sales. On the street though, it feels like people are living, not just shopping. I don't know how to explain it, and it doesn't make sense because I used to hate the market. And I don't know how I feel about feeling at "home" here, especially when I am excited to go to my other home - I do love Canada and I am excited to be there again. I love Ghana too., and I'm super happy to have spent the past 5 months here There are other places I love, and I guess home doesn't have be exclusive to one place. That's nice to know.
So, to finish the day, I finally got a package that my Mum sent me like a month ago. I'd felt kind of guilty when it was sent, and thought maybe I still would after the mall experience, but I have to say it was really, really nice to get some stuff from home; a bra that hasn't been destroyed by overuse and my horrible hand washing skills; a cross word book to help distract my brain before bed; a new shirt which is perfect for work and also (temporarily) free of the destruction that come from my laundry skills (ok, things get REALLY dirty here, and hand washing isn't so easy!); some candy; a valentine. It reminded me that getting wants can be really nice. And compared to how I usually live, this package is not hugely excessive. It's helped me be ok with having wants, but being satisfied with those extras and not perceiving them as needs. It's a balancing act and one I'm sure I'll be figuring out for years to come. Like I said, I didn't really think I would change so much from this experience. Part of me is also scared that I'll come home and be judgemental and bitter, so I guess a big part of writing this blog is as to help prepare all you zillions of people reading it for some of the things I've been thinking about. I may seem like a crazy hippy when I get home, but I will try to be understanding while still standing firm in my convictions and keeping in mind all I've been through here in Ghana. Please also try to be understanding of me :)
Thank you also for all the comments and emails I'm getting! It's so nice to know that people read and care and are interested in the things I write about. Your support means so much to me and its part of the reason I keep bothering to spew these things out!
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