Rains, Plantains, and Growing Pains

Hello! With limited internet time, and slower than usual connections, I've prepared a little blog in advance. Ahem...

I arrived in Nkawkaw one week ago, on what seemed like a somewhat treacherous trotro ride (though praise the skies, the bus had airconditioning!). Kept forgetting which side of the road Ghanaians are supposed to drive on, since it seems to just be whichever has slightly less potholes and no cars coming head on. How many times have I heard tell of African's poor roads and travel infrastructure, in development class after development class, and now at last my brain, nerves and stomach understand!

It was worth it though: Nkawkaw is beautiful, and a delightful change of pace from the mean streets of Accra. We seem to somehow draw less attention - or at least, there's less grabbing and more simply being greeted. We're also surrounded by tropical vegetation, with beautiful green mountains looming in the distance. Walking through the streets, past vendors, feeling the humidity frizz out my hair it really hit me - I'm in Africa!

For these couple of weeks we're staying in the city with a Catholic parish, in a guest house near the hospital, churches, schools and the Priest's residence (where we also eat). The incredible Father Andy, a young, hip father from the Parish instructs us in Twi, one of the local languages. Usually this occurs in chapel, under the watch of white Jesus, white Mary, and a man I believe to be white Joseph. Though these figures have always been white (or obruni, as the locals would say) in my experience...yet here, that particular racial identity seems supremely ridiculous. It's interesting being in a Catholic community, and particular going to Church last Sunday. on the one hand, its kind of comforting to be in an environment in which I have a sense of belonging (btw I'm Catholic) and in which the mass provides a sense of familiarity in an otherwise unfamiliar environment. Yet it's also challenging, being confronted with my Religion under these circumstances. Listening to a sermon about all the good Catholic missionaries have done in Ghana, I couldn't help but feel skeptical. Mission work is so closely tied to colonialism in my head, and there's a sense that the Church's presence in Ghana is based on a troubled history. A lunchtime lecture on the "sickness" of gay marriage by a visiting priest was also a challenging experience - especially since that's something which doesn't appear to be widely approved of in Ghana. Sometimes I feel like being Catholic is a little bit like liking bad pop music (Backstreet Boys anyone?): it feels good, and comforting and can even have a deep effect on you, but there's a part of you that's a little bit ashamed, or embarrassed rather. I've concluded though, that the Catholic Faith, like anything really, can be used for loving, caring, positive, progressive work - or for oppression. Though I value my Catholic upbringing, I value more having been taught to be open minded towards religion, and others and live according to values and morals rather than doctrine. All in all, Jesus (like Dumbledore and Aslan) are on the side of love and so am I, so I think things between us are cool.

Ok, enough spiritual reflection! In other news....I've been reading Easterly's book "White Man's Burden". I feel Professor Spears would be proud. Though it's only been a week and half and 100 pages in, I already feel like being in Ghana makes me better equipped to read books like this, and to both understand the author's point of view and evidence, and to think critically about his observations. One thing I really appreciate is Easterly's recognition that culture, history and social norms are crucial components of economic systems and need to be included in development. It was a main goal of mine coming here to understand development theory, literature, work etc better, and it feels good to kind of be on the right track. It's gonna be a long process, but I was right that this was something I had to live through if I want to pursue a career in development.

On a different note again, the people here are truly amazing. Father Andy is such a fun and patient teacher, Monseigneur Paul is caring and as for the cook, Auntie Aggie - she's incredible. She cooks us amazing meals, can hold a hot pot without oven mitts, and helps us in our Twi while allowing us to pretend to help her in the kitchen. The food here really is incredible - we are definitely being spoiled. I'm sure this will stand out even more after we've experienced a bit more of simple living, in our villages, and on our own. We finally tried Fufu - plaintain which has been pounded into an elasticy ball of goodness. You rip pieces off and dip them in stew or salsa (as you do with both Banky, and Kenke...a theme!) and swallow it whole. I love it - by far my favourite of the starch balls fondues. This is plantain growing country, so we also get a lot of fried and boiled plantain; they can be hard, kind of like potatoes or ripe, kind of like sugary fried goodness dropped form heaven. Also, a note to Pamela: that Banku aftertaste I was complaining about was all you! (or the box). Jokes. But seriously - I like Banku here!

I saw a rainbow today, and also broke a shelf, but let's talk about the rainbow! One second it'll be sunny and hot and blue sky etc and then the clouds will swoop in (yes, swoop), obscuring the mountain top and unleash their torrents! It's pretty dramatic, as was the thunder. They tend not to last too long, though they do make things very muddy. Interestingly, the rainy season is apparently usually done by this time. I might have to have a chat with Al Gore about this one....

One more week of Twi lessons, then it's off to the villages for real - it got pushed back a bit because we arrived a bit later than originally scheduled. I tend to think I'm progressing pretty well in the language...until I talk to an actual Twi speaker. These conversations tend to stagnate after the general, "Hello, How Are you, I'm Fine, My Name is Jacqueline", if they even get that far. Talking to the school children is particularly fun, since they pretty much just giggle when I say anything at all. This can also be confusing since it's impossible to know if they're laughing because I'm a silly Obruni speaking Twi, or if it's because I've made some kind of embarrassingly stupid mistake. Oh well.

Well, I guess that's all. Overall things are feeling less surreal. I'm setting into the heat, and have learned to wash my clothes by hand and shower with a bucket. All things considered, I think it's really awesome how quickly we can adapt to knew situations - at least temporarily. I know the frustration and homesickness will kick in, but for now I'm enjoying this "up" phase in the transition process. I've had tough moments, and it is hard being in a group and also very noticeable; alone time is hard to come by. But for those moments, there's support, and Isable Allende, and perhaps even the odd FanIce (google it - its awesome stuff and I've no time to explain).

Akyre! (See you later!)